By
Ginger Reilly
At an early age, Dykema lawyer Jay Berlinsky discovered a passion for stylish clothing.
"From my earliest memory, I think I was very much aware of clothing and its appearance and fabrics," Berlinsky said, estimating that he was probably age 5 or 6.
Freeborn & Peters partner Robin Dusek gradually eased her way out of a "uniform" way of dressing and into a unique style that she said makes her feel good.
Daniel "D.L." Morriss, an associate at Hinshaw & Culbertson, said he would never go to court without a suit on.
While Lauren Blair, a partner at Pedersen & Houpt, said a lawyer's attire needs to look professional, classic but comfortable and relatable.
Chicago Lawyer interviewed these four Chicago lawyers to learn the secrets behind their professional style. Their colleagues, friends or members of their firms suggested them because of their ability to meld professionalism with style.
A passion for clothing
Berlinsky, who gets his suits tailor-made, said his "love affair with clothing" started as a child.
"It always intrigued me," the 67-year-old Dykema partner said of stylish clothes. "It always attracted me."
He described his style as classic and "British," donning two-piece and three-piece suits of his own design, which are "usually triggered by something I see" and "sometimes it's just something I imagine."
For example, Berlinsky may be inspired by clothes he likes in a movie (or on rare occasions seen in a picture, but that's uncommon).
While he usually wears two-piece, double-breasted suits to work, he does put on three-piece suits in the winter. He described a six-button, double-breasted suit coat with side vents, wide lapels and a structured shoulder as a style staple.
"He's the best dressed male on the planet, but in a very elegant, not overstated way," said Berlinsky's longtime friend and colleague Bruce Sperling, partner and founder of Sperling & Slater.
"He dresses and looks what he is — a very high end, intelligent, experienced corporate lawyer that's very comfortable with himself," Sperling said.
Paul Chang has been tailoring Berlinsky's designs for 35 years, ever since Berlinsky asked him to tailor two suits when Chang's tailor shop operated in his office building, Berlinsky said.
"(Chang) was able to translate into a garment exactly what I envisioned in my mind," Berlinsky said.
Berlinsky will describe the features he wants in the design to Chang. Berlinsky then adds features unique to what he saw in the movie or picture, such as a ticket pocket (a pocket developed, he said, when people used to ride trains so they could keep their train ticket in it) to a suit, he said.
Berlinsky does not draw the design, but Chang sometimes sketches what he describes. He and Chang will then usually discuss the concept more and Chang will perhaps give suggestions on the design Berlinsky describes.
Berlinsky's ties show "vivid" colors and "bold" patterns and he purchases them from places like Turnbull & Asser and Paul Stuart.
"His ties, one notices," said Dykema co-worker and attorney Jerrold Peven. "They don't blend into the background as they do with many of us."
Berlinsky shops for derby hats on vacation in London at Lock & Co. hatters and at Optimo in Chicago, which is "like going back to the 1900s," he said.
Although Berlinsky said "it would be hard to pick a favorite" item from his wardrobe, he particularly likes a heavy tweed, sport coat that's yellowish-tan with a burgundy windowpane (a pattern of thin lines that form squares).
As a lawyer, Berlinsky said personal style becomes important.
"It's always been a means of individual expression to me," Berlinsky said.
In high school, Berlinsky worked at then-Joliet clothing store Al Baskin, "primarily" to get a discount on clothing — spending his "entire salary, plus then some" on the merchandise, he said. He said he liked that he could wear suits to work.
When he went to law school, he made his first expensive clothing purchase — a three-piece "blue, chalk-stripe flannel" suit. The "professional looking suit" cost him $100, a "huge" amount in the later half of the 1960s when an associate's starting salary amounted to about $12,000, he said.
When he watches television with his wife, he said he always becomes "fixated" on the clothes and will notice stylish attire, mentioning to his wife on occasion that "the guy has a really good tailor."
"When you see something that really stands out as being very elegant, really cool, you kind of know when you see it," Berlinsky said, giving the Duchess of Cambridge, the former Kate Middleton, as an example of someone with a "great sense of style."
He said he also admires deceased actor Cary Grant for his "tasteful but imaginative" style.
As for style advice, Berlinsky said "fit is really important" as are details. He advised lawyers to pay attention "to what it is about the garment that makes it attractive," such as lapel width, jacket length, shape and shoulder construction.
"There's really a lot of detail in clothing and you really have to pay attention to what it is that appeals to you," Berlinsky said.
Classic and with an edge
Blair, a 43-year-old partner at Pedersen & Houpt, learned the value of classic style from her parents. They taught her at a young age to spend money on classic and quality pieces that remain timeless.
"I really do invest in those classics, which become the staple of your wardrobe," Blair said.
But she said she also likes to add an "urban edge" to her classic look, such as a funky shoe or chunky piece of jewelry to compliment her Chicago roots.
"I really like to have something singular that is going to be the eye-catcher of the look," Blair said.
For example, Blair pairs tailored black pants, a tailored sleeveless chiffon top, classic platform pumps and a bold, vibrant floral blazer (the "star" of a classic outfit).
"She always has something that she's wearing that pulls the whole outfit together and there's always an element of surprise in her outfit," said Megan McCarthy, an associate at Katz & Stefani.
Blair said her style, mixing classic with edgy pieces, gives her an advantage "over the norm."
"I like to be taken seriously but there's going to be a sense of something extra," she said.
She said she finds it important to "think about how you can modify your look as the day goes on."
A particular favorite item in her wardrobe at the moment, Blair said, is a transitional piece, a blazer by designer Rachel Roy.
"It's very figure flattering," Blair said of the blazer, which nips at the waist and flares out, giving it a "funky" edge.
Blair said she considers black trousers a style staple.
With the right pair of black pants and a blazer, a woman can transition from work to picking children up from school by removing the blazer and changing from pumps to flats.
"When you're feeling comfortable, you're feeling confident," Blair said.
An attorney should seem approachable and relatable, while looking professional and instilling confidence in clients, Blair said. Michelle Obama and Oprah Winfrey, Blair said, both exhibit a "classic sense of style."
Style doesn't always equate to the price, she said.
The first expensive item she owned was a black Gucci bag with trademark hardware that her husband gave her as a gift years ago, she said.
"In today's economy it's about affordability and being practical," she said.
She said she sometimes "shops" in her own closet, which includes classics by such designers as Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren. Blair also shops at Target for items such as tank tops, which can be worn under a blazer.
"You could have a $1,000 suit on with a $12.99 Target tank," Blair said.
While "fashion rules are meant to be broken," Blair advised against "being overly casual."
She said she does not like seeing flip-flops in the office and suggested a stylish flat as an alternative.
"Always look professional," Blair said regarding style.
Coordination and comfort
Morriss, a 28-year-old associate at Hinshaw & Culbertson, said he views color coordination and comfort as keys to dressing with style.
"I've always been into color," said Morriss, who explained that he loves matching color in an outfit, such as ties to shirts.
His sense of style probably came from his grandfather, "who's always big on style"; his uncle, a businessman who "always wears French cuffs"; a college mentor who gave him men's tailoring tips; and his observances of how successful attorneys dress, Morriss said.
"I've probably always had a consciousness of dressing nice," Morriss said.
He said that style comes down to "how you present yourself."
He keeps at least 23 shirts in his closet, mostly French cuff shirts that he orders from Charles Tyrwhitt, he said. He owns 15 suits and four sport coats.
Many of his shirts are shades of blue, he said, which he finds "easier to work off of" when coordinating his clothes. He also owns a few different kinds of cufflinks, such as a button, Mercury dime and knots, he said.
Morriss explained that he coordinates the type of shirt collar with the type of tie knot (such as a full Windsor or half Windsor) when putting together an outfit.
A full Windsor tie knot, which Morriss described as a "perfect V" tie looped on both sides, looks good with a Windsor or traditional collar, he said. His ties include solids and also patterns such as paisleys, polka dots and some stripes.
"He's one of those guys, you can tell, he understands style," said Jennifer Ballard, also an associate at Hinshaw & Culbertson.
His favorite outfit in his wardrobe, Morriss said, consists of a gray suit with light pinstripes that he purchased at Bachrach, a navy blue, checkered shirt purchased at Charles Tyrwhitt, a brown-and-navy paisley tie, with a brown belt and brown Gordon Rush shoes, he said.
"His shoes are always shined and perfection," Ballard said.
Comfort remains an important style element for Morriss. For example, he prefers wool suits to polyester.
Polyester "doesn't breathe," he said. The wool suit remains a style staple, he stressed.
"If you get a good suit, it can last for a while," Morriss said, explaining that wool suits also last longer.
To make his suits fit well, Morriss said he usually, but not always, gets them tailored because most suits cannot be purchased off the rack and fit a person properly. He said he prefers his pant length tailored to generally rest just a little bit over the shoe.
But Morriss has purchased suits from stores like Nordstrom and Macy's, he said.
Even socks should be comfortable, Morriss said, indicating that he prefers quality cotton or cotton blends. He prefers to buy socks from Lord & Taylor.
"I know I've bought some of my best socks from there," he said.
H&M also sells quality socks, Morriss said, who added that he likes to match his socks with his shoes, tie or shirt.
While professional-looking, coordinated attire remains important, Morriss said being stylish doesn't require extravagant spending.
"Overall, I would say I'm a pretty economical dresser," Morriss said.
One of his first expensive purchases was when he started working as a lawyer and bought clothes for work in bulk. Morriss said he usually buys the clothes for his professional wardrobe on sale.
Although he does not keep any set style rules, Morriss said he tries to dress somewhat distinctively.
"I just really try not to follow the crowd in wardrobe," he said, pointing out that he doesn't like the idea of wearing the same suit as someone else.
Yet, he avoids overdoing it with patterns, he said, pointing out that he would never wear a checkered shirt with a polka dot tie and a paisley pattern pocket square (a kind of handkerchief).
"You are a promoter of the law … you definitely have a very large influence in shaping law, which shapes culture," he said.
"Even on casual days, he always looks put together," said Renee Odom, marketing manager at Hinshaw & Culbertson.
How a person dresses can also affect self-confidence, Morriss said.
"If you have a bad dressing day, then it affects your personal self-confidence," he said.
While some courts, such as in Cook County, can lean casual, Morriss said he likes to dress professionally.
Lawyers should dress nicely in court, but not stand out too much, he said. If the attorney looks like a "clown," the judge may pay more attention to what the lawyer wears instead of his argument, he said.
Transitioning style
Dusek, a 38-year-old partner at Freeborn & Peters, said she gradually eased her way out of the black pants "uniform type style."
"I spend a lot of time here and I want to feel good about myself and one way I feel good about myself is wearing clothes that make me happy," Dusek said.
She said she considers a key part of her style to be her African jewelry, bracelets and necklaces (usually of neutral-colored beads made from seeds), either given to her by residents from East Africa (who know her from the charity, Educating Africa's Children, she founded) or that she purchased at an African market.
"It speaks to my heart," Dusek said of her jewelry.
"(She has) really cool beads," said Rachel Atterberry, an associate at Freeborn & Peters.
She said the reinsurance practice can be a male-dominated field so she will "stand out as a female, no matter what I do."
"I might as well embrace that instead of trying to fight it," she said.
In addition to her African jewelry, Dusek said she accentuates her style with her eyewear. She said she owns 10 or so pairs of glasses, which include tortoise shell and leopard print.
She described a pair of glasses, Francis Klein frames with rhinestones in front and leopard print sides — custom-made, choosing from numerous color, shape and rhinestone embellishment options.
Being confident and comfortable with her unique style fosters a more personal relationship with clients and helps "people remember who I am," Dusek said.
"I'm not a cookie-cutter lawyer that just fades into the background," Dusek said. "I am someone that they think of as being unique."
With a style that blends classic clothes, from stores like J. Crew, pulled together with a "kind of twist," Dusek said she stands out "from 100 other women on the L."
"I try to stay stylish but not follow trends too closely, unless it's a trend I really like," Dusek said.
"(She) takes normal style and turns it up a couple notches," said Hillary Krantz, partner at Freeborn & Peters.
Dusek's closet consists of numerous skirts, blouses and dresses — her wardrobe of choice for work, she said.
She will combine clothing, such as a tweed texture with a print, even though it may go against the mainstream style rules, Dusek said.
"I think she's very modern and she's kind of fearless in her style," Krantz said.
She purchases most of her clothes on sale or on eBay, but she does splurge. Eight years ago, she bought a Nanette Lepore suit at Nordstrom for $600.
"Pretty much every time I put it on, I get a compliment," Dusek said.
The flattering, feminine, somewhat textured, black suit with pin dots on the fabric "fit me perfectly," she said.
"No man would wear this fabric," Dusek said of the suit.
The suit was "made for a woman" and the fabric "didn't wrinkle either," she said.
"Every time I put it on, I felt good," Dusek said.
While she owns suits, Dusek said she doesn't wear them often, as she works in a business casual environment.
While she said she feels that "rules are meant to be broken as far as style goes" lawyers must dress appropriately for the office.
"Too short, too tight or too low cut, it's not going to happen for the office," Dusek said.
Regarding style, she advised: "Know your audience and who you're dealing with and you should adjust your style that makes it suitable for that audience."
At the same time, however, she said that "it's important not to lose yourself."
She said that it's important to know "how to adapt who you are in a way that you feel authentic to you."
Daniel "D.L." Morriss
1. What's your favorite store to shop for work clothes?
Varies, but Macy's for several items.
2. If you are meeting with a new client or have your first day in court, what's your favorite "power outfit?"
Gray or navy blue suit; powder-blue cutaway collar shirt, royal blue-and-silver striped; and brown shoes for client, black shoes for court.
3. What brand is your watch?
Dark brown — Kenneth Cole, tan — Jacques Lemans, black — Prague.
4. Describe your style.
Classic with a modern flair.
5. What do you wear on weekends?
Jeans, buttoned shirt and sneakers.
6. What's your favorite brand of jeans?
Gap.
7. Whose style do you admire?
Varies, but William Shatner and Alan Shore of "Boston Legal."
8. What's the first expensive piece of clothing or pair of shoes that you purchased when you became a lawyer?
Because I already had suits, shirts, shoes, ties and cufflinks, it was a Kenneth Cole winter coat from bluefly.com.
9. What's your No. 1 style pet peeve?
Tank undershirt under dress shirts, especially light-colored dress shirts.
10. Who's your favorite designer?
Paul Stuart for combination ideas, Sugar Chicago for ties and Charles Tyrwhitt for shirts.
Jay Berlinsky
1. What's your favorite store to shop for work clothes?
When I do shop in stores, it's usually at Paul Stuart.
2. If you are meeting with a new client or have your first day in court, what's your favorite "power outfit?"
Double-breasted suit and a tie in bold colors.
3. What brand is your watch?
I like mechanical watches and have a few, some of which have been gifts and have sentimental value. A Rolex given to me by my folks when I graduated from law school in 1969 and a Vacheron Constantin given to me by my wife as a birthday gift.
4. How would you describe your style?
British classic.
5. What do you wear on weekends?
Sweaters and corduroy pants, khakis or jeans, desert boots or sneakers.
6. What's your favorite brand of jeans?
Brooks Brothers.
7. Who's style do you admire?
Prince Charles and Cary Grant.
8. What's the first expensive piece of clothing or pair of shoes that you purchased when you became a lawyer?
My first (too) expensive purchase was a three-piece blue, chalk-stripe flannel Southwick suit that I bought at the Brittany when beginning law school.
9. What's your No. 1 style pet peeve?
Jacket sleeves that are too long and jackets that are too short.
10. Who's your favorite designer?
Paul Chang.
Robin Dusek
1. What's your favorite store to shop for work clothes?
I rarely go in stores. I get a lot of clothes at J.Crew and mix them with more unique pieces.
2. If you are meeting with a new client or have your first day in court, what's your favorite "power outfit?"
For a meeting with a client, a well-fitting skirt suit, with very high heels, and an interesting blouse.
3. What brand is your watch?
Baume & Mercier and Coach.
4. How would you describe your style?
Funky classic.
5. What do you wear on weekends?
Colder weather: tall boots, jeans/leggings, tunics/blouses. Warmer weather: dresses/skirts and sandals.
6. What's your favorite brand of jeans?
James.
7. Who's style do you admire?
Anyone willing to take a risk — so my style icons are as diverse as Michelle Obama, Lady Gaga and many others too numerous to mention.
8. What's the first expensive piece of clothing or pair of shoes that you purchased when you became a lawyer?
Nanette Lepore suit.
9. What's your No. 1 style pet peeve?
When I see someone on the L who hasn't snipped the white thread "x" holding skirt pleats or jacket pleats together.
10. Who's your favorite designer?
I often am interested in what Tracy Reese comes up with. Her clothes don't fit me well, but I do like many elements of her design. I will also watch Nanette Lepore. But both can get too "girly," so I watch them for an overall impression.
Lauren Blair
1. What's your favorite store to shop for work clothes?
Nordstrom.
2. If you are meeting with a new client or have your first day in court, what's your favorite "power outfit?"
Something tailored and structured to convey strength and organization, but my focus tends to be on shoes with strength (e.g. platform pumps or pointy toe) or edge (e.g. bold color or snakeskin/leopard pattern).
3. What brand is your watch?
Bulova for steel, Alfex for gold.
4. How would you describe your style?
Edgy classic.
5. What do you wear on weekends?
Day: Skinny, black jeans and loose comfortable, henley-style tops; Night: Same with a funky blazer, leather jacket or faux fur vest.
6. What's your favorite brand of jeans?
Citizens of Humanity.
7. Who's style do you admire?
Aside from my mother's, Michelle Obama and Mary Tyler Moore (both '60s and '70s styles).
8. What's the first expensive piece of clothing or pair of shoes that you purchased when you became a lawyer?
Chanel shoes.
9. What's your No. 1 style pet peeve?
Blindly following trends.
10. Who's your favorite designer?
I like supporting Rachel Roy (one of the few successful black female designers) but I also never go wrong with Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.