Counsel's Table

Central Standard tries a neat longitudinal trick — from the swamps of Louisiana to the supper clubs of the North Woods, the menu tries to pick the best of the 87 to 90 or so degrees parallel of the country that watches the news at 10, not 11. Interesting concept, but more ambitious than you might think. Cuisine from the north and south points of this vertical line vary so much that putting it all together on one …